Over the past couple of years, I have developed a strong fascination with fashion and trends, as well as an ever-growing umbrella of visions. It started with women’s fashion, but I found myself lured into the world of men’s fashion, influenced by my fashion-savvy friend Rainer, who spent close to $12K on shoes at John Lobb on our last shopping trip (but we’ll save that story for another blog post). Lets move on without being too verbose shall we?
Slim Fit Suits
Recently, slim-fit suits have been all the rage, appearing on every runway from Brioni to CoSTUME National and Alexander McQueen as well as in every department store from Macy’s to The Bay. The celebration of the male silhouette has been welcomed with open arms as we bid farewell to the old-fashioned, boxy, baggy look that Uncle Bob has been sporting at every family reunion since 1985. It is a common misconception that the slim-fit style of clothing only works for lanky or athletically-built men. On the contrary, slim-fit is actually a style in cutting. Unlike most styles which leave a larger fabric allowance, the slim-fit has a more narrow cut, leaving only a 1-2″ leeway. This cut creates a more body-contouring, tapered look. In other words, slim-fit is not only for the select few with Brad Pitt bodies out there - it also works for the general populace of men with regular bodies. It is simply a matter of finding the right fit. Even places like Mr. Big & Tall have started carrying pants in slimmer styles.
This slim-fit trend marks the revival of the awareness and appreciation of the male physique, demonstrating that men can primp and look good as well. It is no longer “feminine” or homosexual” for the “manly” men to pay attention to their looks. However, in 2009, with the economic downturn, a sense of traditional masculinity has been renewed, upholding the symbolization of the “hunters,” as well as the concept of “survival of the fittest,” finally ending the Manorexic/
Chris Crocker look. The classic looks that emulate masculinity are brought back by infusing the styles of the male silhouette with classic styles and tailoring that incorporate the emphasis ofÂ
broad shoulders, slim waist, slim trousers look (think James Bond). Say “goodbye” to the Samantha Ronson boys out there and “hello” to V-Shaped figures, where cuts and styles are made to highlight the good and cheat the bad. These styles will last through 2009/2010.
Style and Cut to look out for in the new year:
[1] The Double Breasted
A style popular in the late 1930’s to the 1950’s that made a comeback during the late 80’s up until the demise of alternative rock culture in the 90’s and boybands and Britney Spears were coming to an MTV near you.
1. 1-3 buttons on the jacket/blazer - anymore and you’re making a fashion faux pas
2. Shoulders should be fitted - no 80’s shoulder pads. American styles end at the shoulder bone while English styles peak out a little past the shoulders.
3. Most of the new Double Breasted styles you will see in the upcoming season are “Kent” style, which is the slimmest of the DB cuts. The “Kent” cut will give the create a slimming effect to the waist and also add height due the the extension of the longer lapel to the waist (following the traditional English suits).
My Recommendations:
Paul Smith, J. Lindberg
Recommendations by Fashion Gurus:
Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, Tom Ford, Roberto Cavalli
[2] Three-Piece Suits:
Images of a man by the name of say…Robert James, in his gold spectacles, holding a pocket watch and smoking a pipe might come to mind when the 3-piece suit is mentioned. A short scene with Robert Redford and Clint Eastwood sharing champagne with Liza Minneli and Beegees in the background might even meander into your conscious thoughts. Yes. The 3-Piece Suit is back! Not that it was ever out of style, but the trend itself did hibernate for a while, popping up from time to time. It was the social norm for men to dress in the classic 3-piece suits up until WWII before the words “casual & denim” were introduced to the general public. Of course these suits came back in fury around the 70’s to the toddler years of the 80’s. And now it seems like it’s creeping back into the spotlight. I mean, when Shlum Bum Trucker Hat-wearing Ashton is spotted in this damn suit, either the world is really ending or some fashion revolution is happening folks!
Key Points (to looking the part instead of looking like you’re ready to sink with the Titanic):
-It’s all about the waistcoat/vest. Think
Bourgeois. Conservative, moderate, conventional. Stick to like shades and palettes for your other pieces. For the adventurous types…go as far as pinstripes on your vest. No 80’s craziness.
-Stick to like fabrics as well with the suits
-Find a deeper V neck in the waistcoat. It will elongate the body and create a slimmer waist; it is also more versatile when paired with other shirts, with or without the jacket.
The 3 Styles (that the internet and magazines are whoring out):
Traditional:
-traditional contrasts (think black and white, white collared shirt, diagonal lines from tie, horizontal pinstripes)
-thin tie
-thin, subtle pinstripes
Aristocratic:
-suit and shirt is color coordinated (ex. dark plum pinstriped suit, bold purple colored tie that coordinates with suit, light collared shirt with subtle purple hues)
Avant:
-simple
-subtle shades of grey
-add a pointed lapel (not suggested if you’re a bit bigger - stick to clean cut lines and subtle horizontal pinstripes to elongate the body)
My Recommendations:
Valentino, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Yves Saint Laurent
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Patterns of 2009
Patterns are back this year! They are timeless - always stylish even when not recognized as so. This year, it is all about playing up the optical illusion, and giving the plain suit a little spice.
