Victoria Grace Nation

Jeans have revolutionized the fashion world in many ways after WWII, it essentially changed the ideals of daily wear after it hit mainstream. Daily fashion during pre-war days were about formality, the more layers you have, the higher the status you are, but soon after the war, daily wear became something of comfort instead of status.


Thanks to Levi Strauss, a Bavarian-born American who found a new fabric in France called “serge de Nimes” was more durable than the widely used Canvas, to dress his clients who were mainly blue collared men and cowboys. Serge is a type of twill fabric, and Nimes is the name of a city in France that founded this fabric. Shortly afterwards, the name was shortened to Denim. The word Jeans, comes from the French word of Genoa, Italy (Gene) where the first pair of denim trousers were made, but the first official pair of denim jeans were made in San Francisco, the same city where Levi Strauss lived.


Jeans come in many styles and fits, here’s a list of popular styles and fits:
* Baggy
* Bootcut
* Boyfriend/Weekend
* Carpenter
* Cropped
* Flare
* Embroidered
* High-waisted
* Loose
* Relaxed
* Skinny/Stovepipes
* Straight-leg
* Wide leg
* Drain Pipe


Tummy Problems
**To fake a flat tummy, wear jeans with thick waistbands or do something high-rise to minimize the middle
**Handling love handles, go for mid-rise styles that are 8 to 8.5 inches from crotch, make sure the waistband is stretchy if it’s anything lower than mid-rise.
**For the boyish figure or people with angular hips, choose jeans that rest on the pelvic bone and AVOID boyfriend cuts
**Hippy ladies, find jeans just below your belly button when you do up high-rise jeans. AVOID wearing jeans with tight ankles, find something that flares out a little to balance out the hip area.


Bootylicious
**If you’re quite bootyful, find jeans with stretchy fabric with great support for the jiggly wiggly.
**Tone-on-tone design and embroidery will minimize attention to the bum
**Find back pockets with inverted triangular shapes and vertical lines will help minimize the bum
**Rounded pocket edges will give square, flat bums a nice rounded apple shape
**High flap back pockets will create the illusion of a higher, perkier behind, as well as stitching across the top of the pockets will draw attention to the top of the butt and not the bottom
**Remember: Pocket placement and design is crucial when choosing jeans and making your bum look good,90% of men do not check their bums when purchasing jeans


Slimming Styles
**Find side seams that curve to the front for a narrow silhouette. Try Fidelity’s Skip jeans which are probably the strongest denim on the market currently, with polyester woven into the jeans to hold their shape, so say goodbye to VPL!
**Jeans that are 1/4 inch smaller at the thigh and knee actually directs viewers eyes to the ankle and not the rear. Try City of Others’ Minsk which flares out below the knee.
**Jeans that hug a little tighter on the top with a straight-leg style will create a sexier, curvy look than the usual straight-leg tomboy style. Try Habitual’s Straight Leg Isolation which is stretchy, but will hold you in.
**Always hard to find low-rise jeans that cover love handles, but there are jeans that sit between a low-rise and mid-rise, it’s 2 inches higher than the usual low-rise. Try J Brand’s Heartbreaker jeans which went waiting list crazy across the U.S.
**Wide-leg in mid-rise with minimal pockets and detailing is super trendy this season and this flatters ALL figures.


According to the Denim Blog it seems like PRPS is really taking the denim celebrity world by storm. Of course there’s the usual J Brand, 7 For All Mankind, etc.


The other trend for 2009 is the “Thrasher” look, jeans that have been ripped and cut up are back in rage. And be on the lookout, seems as though Denim shirts and Jeans Jackets are slowly making a comeback…

Resource: Some adapted from InStyle Magazines

Adapted from the March Issue of InStyle Magazine:


[1] Denim Jeans:
These are 4 styles of jeans that should be in every girl’s closet:

Straight-leg Classic and versatile, the standard straight-leg width is 17 inches (42.2cm), but a slightly more flared boot-cut is flattering to most figures (especially girls with an hourglass figure or pear-shaped ladies, this will balance out the hips).

Trouser The dressier cousin in the denim family, it can be substitute for pants, allowing you to wear jeans to the office. Especially the fact that jeans are starting to be accepted in lots of office type environments. Always wise to choose darker Trouser denim, when going into the office and dress the jeans up with a top that’s a bit more dressy/formal.

Skinny “stovepipes” are perfect for a night out when paired with sexy heels, and they’re the best cut for tucking into boots. Avoid cropped stovepipes if your legs are on the short side, this will accentuate the shortness. Pair with a longer shirt if your thighs tend to be meatier, for the “my thighs don’t touch” women as well.

Weekend These relaxed, or “boyfriend,” jeans are your comfy pair, the ones you’re tempted to live in 24/7. These are jeans that have a little bit more room and it’s all about comfort. Weekend jeans are suppose to flare out above the the knees. The boyfriend jean is exactly what it sounds like, a pair of jeans that belong to your boyfriend, so it should fit a tiny bit baggier.

[2] Little Black Dress
A classic must-have for women, it’s sexy and great for every occasion. Remember, more skin doesn’t mean more sexy.

ii) Spend Wisely Even on a budget, you can score an LBD. The key is to stay away from over-embellishments, since low-cost lace and beading risk looking cheap. My Mother has always taught me quality over quantity, to invest in great timeless pieces. Then again I don’t think that advice will go well with my sister whose more of a quantity over quality person, since her must-haves changes all the time.

ii) Skin vs. Shape Follow this simple rule when picking your LBD: Show skin or shape - not both. Make sure the dress is highlighting your strongest features and downplaying your weakest features, a dress that gives you confidence will make you feel and look like you’re 10lbs lighter (or heavier if you’re looking into gaining a bit more weight).

iii) Illusion Black see-through fabrics like chiffon or georgette cover you but still grab attention 0without revealing the full monty. My wise Mother always said that the sexiest piece of clothing is to not reveal all, but to show enough that makes the mind wonder and keeps the eye exactly where you want them - on you.

iv) Shine Nothing glams up an LBD like shine or sparkle- but refelctive fabrics can make you appear larger so feature them on places you want to play up. I love a bit of sparkle, but make sure it’s not so sparkly that people would need sunglasses to look at you, because most-likely after a couple of wears, it’ll be in the back of your closet. Stick with something that can go from day to night.


[3] Skirts
A skirt is a staple piece for any women, it’s a lot more versatile than a full out dress. It can go from in the office to outside of the office, and from day to night. The key is to find a dress that will flatter your figure. I personally think a black A-line skirt, ending just at mid-knee is something for every women, it’s a classic style.

Curvy/Bottom Heavy A-lines and easy-wrap options. You want fabrics that are soft and fluid enough to float over curves. Avoid pockets, pleats, horizontal lines, and excess fabric or design at the hips, this will give a bulkier look. For bottom-heavy try something that tapers a bit to the knees.

Petite/Boyish Try tapered straight skirts or subtle A-lines just make sure the length hovers around the knee. Also, an off-center slit makes legs look longer as well as vertical lines will create length. For Boyish frames, lucky you - almost any style works! Pleating, pockets, horizontal lines and belts can add shape and definition to slim hips.


[4] White Shirts
I usually have 2 different types of white shirts, a looser (boyfriend) shirt that I casually wear with leggings or a pair of jeans either buttoned or over a tank top. Then there’s the fitted one that I can wear by itself or with a blazer, sweater, vest, cardigan, it’s so versatile! When choosing it’s all about FABRIC, FABRIC, FABRIC. If you don’t like ironing, find something that is wrinkle free! Choose a cotton shirt, it’ll be the most breathable. I personally find Brooks Brothers to have the best, classic, wrinkle-free shirts.

Cut You want tailored perfection - not loose, billowy, or boxy.

Front Watch for pulling across the chest, gaps between the buttons, and rising at the front hem. For larger chest women, it’s sometimes really hard to find that perfect shirt since when it fits in the front, it’ll be big around the waist, so go in a some shirts custom-made or get some shirts tailored.

Darts Vertical darts below the bust help give shirts a fitted look. Horizontal darts to the side of the bust accentuate curves.

SleevesThese should be wide enough that you can extend your arms and move freely without disturbing the fit of the body of the shirt. It’s important to cross your arms and make sure it’s not tight at the back and it doesn’t rise at the shoulders when you raise your arms.

**Pictures are being added shortly**

Alright this took awhile but we’re continuing on with the 2009 Trend Talk. The last post we talked about the suit trends of 2009, in this post we’re going to be looking at the remainder hodge podge of things that make up, what we like to call “fashion.” So sit back and lets take a look at the things highlighted in this post.


[1] A continuation of the Suit Talk, but Dinner Wear.
Going to a nice gala? No? Funeral? Okay…probably not the best place to show off your fashion sense, okay fine WEDDING! Well leave the ties at home, the bow-tie is back (thanks to James Bond), as you might already have spotted all over celebs at award shows. Brad Pitt, David Beckham has it down pat, but then again they have anything down pat, even if it’s a Banana in Pajama costume.

[2] At the Office: Socks
This really depends on where you are, here in North America, the acceptable office wear varies depending not only in the industry, but depends a lot if you’re on the West coast or East coast. Either way I know with a lot of men I know, socks has been a huge rage. The typical answer I got was that they were tired of the same thing over and over and they wanted to go a little “wild” down there…uh…further down guys…geez. So people have been opting for crazy socks with their subtle suits. I personally don’t understand the crazy sock phase, but whatever floats your boat guys! To add to that, apparently ankle socks are huuuge as well.


[3] Everyday Wear
A) Vintage
Alright think 70’s, 80’s, thrift store look. It’s apparently a huge rage right now to own things “vintage” Honestly guys, it’s no longer called “second-hand” or “used” the politically correct and savvy term is “vintage.” Alright say it with me [Vin-tij]. Hey whatever, with the economy being in shambles, go wild! Now let me clear things up before you go out and start sporting your Back to the Future acid washed jeans, varsity jacket, a mullet and listening to songs on your 8-track. Remember, we’re still in 2009 here, so this means highlighting a few pieces with some up-to-date pieces.


B) Deep V and Wide necklines
So this whole deep v and wide neckline thing has been popping up on runways everywhere! But usually for the general public, it means this isn’t going to be popular until it shows up at your local H&M or if David Becks is wearing it religiously OR it won’t be popular at all. Of course this doesn’t apply to most men in Europe, Japan and New York who tends to have a quicker, bolder sense of style than most of the boring men here. =P Most of these styles that are shown on the runway is made with very thin fabric, so forget about layering and throwing on a shirt underneath, you’re suppose to bare the chest, so make sure to tame the chest hair.

C) Cardigans
The cardigan’s been creeping back, although you only see the skinny jean, eyeliner boys wearing it or the waifly figured men wearing it. But really nothing wrong with wearing a fitted white tee inside, a pair of jeans and throw on a button up cardigan or my favourite, David Becks did the cardigan look by mixing in a manly plaid shirt inside, a tie and jeans. He threw on very manly pieces and tied it all together with a light colored sweater.


D) Cropped/Rolled-Up Pants
You are NOT reading this wrong, but cropped and rolled-up pants are in. I’ve been seeing this on a lot of runways as well I saw the rolled-up pant look in multiple photoshoots like the Instyle shoot with Chris Evans and Matthew Mcconaughey in a recent shoot. I’m finally accepted it as a style with the women, but for the men…give me a few more months…although Chris Evans totally rocked this style in the Instyle shoot.


[4] Accessories
There’s been a huge rise in accessory popularity in men, it’s not just about showing off the shoes, watch and polished shoe now.


A) Tie Clips, Brooches, Stick pins
If you’re at the office, try a tie clip and stick pin, if you’re not a huge fan of the brooch. Stick pins are subtle and they’ll add a little bit to your suit without it being too overpowering. The tie clip will always been the classic, can’t-go-wrong decision of the 3 choices.

B) Scarves
Scarves has really hit the scene in both men and women fashion, thanks to shows like Gossip Girl, maybe even Harry Potter =P But the Arab styled scarf has really been showing up everywhere. I noticed it last year when I was in Asia, but I’ve noticed a lot of men and women sporting it. But either way, we’re really noticing a seasonal crossover throughout the seasons, which is great because now you can wear certain things all year round!

C) Wayfarer sunglasses
Please put down your aviators and pick up a pair of Wayfarers. Even though I”m still sportin’ the aviator with my leather jacket, for the sake of talking about trends it’s in full bloom baby! Rob Pattinson wore a pair in the cult status movie Twilight, Pete Wentz and Orlando have been spotted in it and almost every other female celebrity has been captured in them. Ray Ban made Aviators popular a few years ago, and it’s once again Ray Ban leading the pack with their Wayfarer glasses. Either way, it’s a blast from the past.


[5] COLOR is IN
This Spring/Summer season it’s all about splashes of color set with neutrals. Soft orange and blue will be the rage. No matter if it’s just a splash of purple, red, yellow or orange on your tie or a bright stick pin, it’s staple to throw a splash of color. The other odd trend that seems to be surfacing is Ombre. Don’t ask me, I’m not a fan!

[6] Hair Trends
I can’t help but think Chase Crawford when I discovered the latest hairstyle trends.
A) Fringe
It’s all about fringes folks. The short fringe is great for round faces and want to slim it up a bit. Anything longer it’s best to wear it sweeping to the side, not the best for anyone with a short forehead. You can do your fringe 2 ways, either textured by having all your hair forward and forward fringes or a messy, textured look. If not it’s smooth and glossy all over with side sweep fringes.

B) Classic Side Part
We mentioned earlier about very classic styles coming back, well same goes for the classic side part. I always think of Prince Charles and his side-part

C) Slicked Back
This is sooo Chow Yun Fat who has created a staple look for slicked back hair in Asia since the 80’s. Becks, Pitt, even good ol’ Georgey (Clooney) has been seen on the red carpet with the slicked back look. The look is great for people that don’t have overly curly hair, sorry to Nick Jonas. It’s great for the people sporting the fringe and wants their bangs out of the way for the day.

D) Color
Platinum Blonde! I personally don’t understand this trend and I would just go with natural hair color.

They also call this the “Mandora” according to US Magazine. Fedora’s are back and with a vengeance Spring 2009. I personally don’t think it’s for everyone, but if you can rock it, oh please rock it. I’m getting tired of the caps, toques, doo-rag, gang styled head wraps, and the “I’m Chris Crocker” greasy, haven’t washed in days head. Bring the classy fedoras back!


Don’t believe me? Here take a look, Johnny Depp, Justin Timberlake, even Ashton! Come on now…it’s got to mean something.


If you’re a Fedora person and can totally rock out in one, I suggest getting one in a neutral colour such as dark brown, tan, grey, and black. Keep it simple. The last thing you want is to by something flashy, wear it once and never wear it again. Make sure the height of the Fedora and the width of the brim is right on your face.


Round Head:
Angle your hat and pick simple cuts. The angling will help give angle to the face instead a giant blob at the end of your neck. Find a fedora without a lot of excess detailing or fabric, it’ll just add weight and make your head look clumsy. This goes with any hat you choose as well.


Oval Face:
The one face shape that will look good in any sort of hats. So try it out!


Square Shaped Face:
Find a Fedora with a larger brim and has a bit of a curve to it, this will soften up any odd angles. But if you have that perfect, chiseled jaw-line, then hell accentuate the hardness of your face. Go crazy with the details.


Long Shaped Faces:
Find something that is short in depth, but wide in brim. Don’t angle the placement of your Fedora and just wear it simply low and straight. This will help shorten the length of your face as well play up the mystery a bit with the lower sitting hat.


Still finding the Perfect Fedora, well I found a great site that helps men pick out the perfect hat for their facial features and even tells you what suit you should wear what colors with. Check it out!

I’m currently working on the 2nd part of Men’s Fashion Trends 2009…just wait! And I’ll have the women’s once I have some time! But please don’t hold your breath…I’ve been super busy!

So I was blankly staring at my monitor today, fighting every last bit of urge to take my boots off, wipe all the shit off my desk and doze off in fetal position on my oak wood desk. I think I was dazedly looking at a post about the theory of the Law of Attraction when a voice broke through my momentary retardation.


“Hey Vic, I’m taking off for the day, geez you’re always dressed so stylishly fashionable, you encourage me to dress and look better, you know that?” comes the voice of one the Directors of the company I work for. I look up seeing him towering over my desk in his denim jeans, expensive suit jacket and tie. He’s in his early 40’s, blond hair, blue eyes with a face that looks like it belongs to a guy in his mid 30’s. We’ll call him Mr Branson, since with facial hair he looks like a young version of Richard Branson with bigger eyes. Mr Branson is a happy-go-lucky guy, with a booming laugh that rocks the office every time he’s on the phone…I honestly wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between Mr Branson’s laugh or an actual earthquake.

So I look up sort of in a state of confusion since he just broke through my mindless state of “I’m bored as fuck, but I’m trying to look busy.” I politely thanked him and we talked a bit more about fashion before he took off for the day. It was 1:30pm.


So after he left I did a quick review of my wardrobe this week:


Monday:
-Black turtleneck
-Red doll-cut cashmere sweater
-Black high waisted trousers
-Pointy Stiletto heels
-A long gold loopy chain

Tuesday:
-Black turtle neck
-A short beige jacket that cinched at the waist and flared out at the bottom (very Jackie O, Paris fashion, Katie Holmes)
-A long silver chain with a flat hoop that says “Live your Life”
-Black skinny denims
-Black leather mid-length riding boots with a 2 inch thick heel
-A nude colored knit baret


Of course I finished off both looks with the usual diamond studs, white ceramic watch and a neutral bracelet


I don’t think it’s anything WOWing…although our city lacks any sort of fashion besides jeans and a top from the ONLY store that all the girls will shop from. I think it’s the baret…I mean the only people that wear hats are guys (caps) and the alternative kids that want to rebel against society. But to have a guy say that to me is such a compliment!


Okay I’m done rolling around in my own vanity now.

NEXT!

Over the past couple of years, I have developed a strong fascination with fashion and trends, as well as an ever-growing umbrella of visions. It started with women’s fashion, but I found myself lured into the world of men’s fashion, influenced by my fashion-savvy friend Rainer, who spent close to $12K on shoes at John Lobb on our last shopping trip (but we’ll save that story for another blog post). Lets move on without being too verbose shall we?

Slim Fit Suits

Recently, slim-fit suits have been all the rage, appearing on every runway from Brioni to CoSTUME National and Alexander McQueen as well as in every department store from Macy’s to The Bay. The celebration of the male silhouette has been welcomed with open arms as we bid farewell to the old-fashioned, boxy, baggy look that Uncle Bob has been sporting at every family reunion since 1985. It is a common misconception that the slim-fit style of clothing only works for lanky or athletically-built men. On the contrary, slim-fit is actually a style in cutting. Unlike most styles which leave a larger fabric allowance, the slim-fit has a more narrow cut, leaving only a 1-2″ leeway. This cut creates a more body-contouring, tapered look. In other words, slim-fit is not only for the select few with Brad Pitt bodies out there - it also works for the general populace of men with regular bodies. It is simply a matter of finding the right fit. Even places like Mr. Big & Tall have started carrying pants in slimmer styles.


This slim-fit trend marks the revival of the awareness and appreciation of the male physique, demonstrating that men can primp and look good as well. It is no longer “feminine” or homosexual” for the “manly” men to pay attention to their looks. However, in 2009, with the economic downturn, a sense of traditional masculinity has been renewed, upholding the symbolization of the “hunters,” as well as the concept of “survival of the fittest,” finally ending the Manorexic/Chris Crocker look. The classic looks that emulate masculinity are brought back by infusing the styles of the male silhouette with classic styles and tailoring that incorporate the emphasis of  broad shoulders, slim waist, slim trousers look (think James Bond). Say “goodbye” to the Samantha Ronson boys out there and “hello” to V-Shaped figures, where cuts and styles are made to highlight the good and cheat the bad. These styles will last through 2009/2010.


Style and Cut to look out for in the new year:


[1] The Double Breasted

A style popular in the late 1930’s to the 1950’s that made a comeback during the late 80’s up until the demise of alternative rock culture in the 90’s and boybands and Britney Spears were coming to an MTV near you.

1. 1-3 buttons on the jacket/blazer - anymore and you’re making a fashion faux pas
2. Shoulders should be fitted - no 80’s shoulder pads. American styles end at the shoulder bone while English styles peak out a little past the shoulders.
3. Most of the new Double Breasted styles you will see in the upcoming season are “Kent” style, which is the slimmest of the DB cuts. The “Kent” cut will give the create a slimming effect to the waist and also add height due the the extension of the longer lapel to the waist (following the traditional English suits).

My Recommendations:
Paul Smith, J. Lindberg

Recommendations by Fashion Gurus:
Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, Tom Ford, Roberto Cavalli


[2] Three-Piece Suits:





Images of a man by the name of say…Robert James, in his gold spectacles, holding a pocket watch and smoking a pipe might come to mind when the 3-piece suit is mentioned. A short scene with Robert Redford and Clint Eastwood sharing champagne with Liza Minneli and Beegees in the background might even meander into your conscious thoughts. Yes. The 3-Piece Suit is back! Not that it was ever out of style, but the trend itself did hibernate for a while, popping up from time to time. It was the social norm for men to dress in the classic 3-piece suits up until WWII before the words “casual & denim” were introduced to the general public. Of course these suits came back in fury around the 70’s to the toddler years of the 80’s. And now it seems like it’s creeping back into the spotlight. I mean, when Shlum Bum Trucker Hat-wearing Ashton is spotted in this damn suit, either the world is really ending or some fashion revolution is happening folks!


Key Points (to looking the part instead of looking like you’re ready to sink with the Titanic):
-It’s all about the waistcoat/vest. Think Bourgeois. Conservative, moderate, conventional. Stick to like shades and palettes for your other pieces. For the adventurous types…go as far as pinstripes on your vest. No 80’s craziness.
-Stick to like fabrics as well with the suits
-Find a deeper V neck in the waistcoat. It will elongate the body and create a slimmer waist; it is also more versatile when paired with other shirts, with or without the jacket.


The 3 Styles (that the internet and magazines are whoring out):


Traditional:
-traditional contrasts (think black and white, white collared shirt, diagonal lines from tie, horizontal pinstripes)
-thin tie
-thin, subtle pinstripes


Aristocratic:
-suit and shirt is color coordinated (ex. dark plum pinstriped suit, bold purple colored tie that coordinates with suit, light collared shirt with subtle purple hues)


Avant:
-simple
-subtle shades of grey
-add a pointed lapel (not suggested if you’re a bit bigger - stick to clean cut lines and subtle horizontal pinstripes to elongate the body)


My Recommendations:
Valentino, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Yves Saint Laurent


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Patterns of 2009

Patterns are back this year! They are timeless - always stylish even when not recognized as so. This year, it is all about playing up the optical illusion, and giving the plain suit a little spice.